Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
